The sacred relic makings its way down the parade route.
A blur of movement
Buddha tweaks our apartment building.
The chains
Jasper’s in the background.
Every full moon the entire country of Sri Lanka, people of all faiths, celebrate “Poya” day, which essentially becomes a holiday when families gather, festivals are held, and remembrances held. During our first Pola Day we went out to eat some amazing Sri Lankan food and strolled the Arcade in Independence Square with countless other families.
As the February Poya approached we talked a bit about walking the local park that evening and taking in the sights. The night before Poya I was reading before bed when I looked outside the window of our new apartment to see what I thought were elephants walking the streets below. We all quickly gathered ourselves to head outside to catch the tail end of a parade.
We turn the block to see a spectacle that rivals, dare I say, exceeds, any parades we’ve seen or participated in the states. Dancing troops from across the country replicating ancient dances to traditional music filled the streets. Teams of monks clad in orange carrying golden suns reflecting in the fire light, large plastic Buddha encased in flashing lights putting on a psychedelic show. And the elephants, draped in embroidered tapestries that glittered in the light. We had stumbled upon the largest and grandest Poya parade in Colombo of the year, the Nawam Maha Perahera. By 11 pm the parade was over, marked by the arrival of the sacred relic on the back of purple and blue adorned elephant.
According to a website, “The Nawam Maha Perahera of the Gangaramaya Temple was started in 1979 during a period of economic turmoil, student unrest and massive unemployment in Sri Lanka. During this unsettling time, the traditional Sri Lankan performing artists and their cultural talents were being neglected by lack of recognition and opportunity, and many of the village groups had sold their costumes, masks and instruments and found new employment in the industrial or agricultural sectors.” – See more at: http://www.serendib.btoptions.lk/article.php?id=1614&issue=62#sthash.hVYQhmuv.dpuf
The kicker for us, was that the parade is a two day affair. We readied ourselves for the second night and caught the parade again, this time, seeing its start. More dancers, more fire and stilt walkers, more monks in flowing robes. We had a very nice vantage point where the parade does a loop around one of the city’s famed bodhi trees. It all made for a wonderful backdrop to an unforgettable experience. Jasper even made a friend who invited him up onto a fence to watch the show.
By the end of the night, however, we all began to feel sorry for the elephants, most of whom sauntered down the road in chains. A harsh reality for these gentle beasts. A reminder that despite the capacity for human beings to express such beauty through movement, song and sight, we still have a ways to go toward respecting our animal brethren. That being said, we felt fortunate to witness the events and will count it among the many, and growing, memorable moments being had here.